H'kusam and Mount Cain

H'Kusam

I posted a day trip up Mount H'kusam with the Alpine Club. I had done a hike up Springer Peak earlier this summer, and then ran the Kusam Klimb in June. This was my third time to the area in about 2 months, and I wanted to have a go at Mount H'kusam.

On trip day we were down to a group of 4: Alex and Heather (from work), Wes, and myself. Early on Wes was feeling a little rough from a heavy evening the night before, so Heather decided to join Alex and I up Springer Peak, and then she headed back down to Join Wes and we continued on.

Views north to Sayward and Johnstone Straight.

On Springer Peak with Mount H'Kusam on the right behind.


From Springer Peak, we continued along "Bill's Trial" to the pass down into Stowe Creek. We dropped down a few hundred feet, then contoured into the basin below Mount H'kusam. We climbed up a loose gulley ("The gulley of Death") and found ourselves on top.

Looking into the basin below Mount H'Kusam. The route is up the prominent gulley.

Close up of the gulley. Crampons and an ice axe would have probably been an asset.



On top H'Kusam. Looking back to Springer Peak (centre) and Stowe Peak (right).

Looking back down Johnstone Straight into Seymour Narrows.

We decided to head down Lyle's Trail on the other side of the mountain, and then complete a route (following the Kusam Klimb route) around Stowe Creek and back to the car. At first you descend down open slopes which were burned in a forest fire not too long ago.

Descending the burn.

After 11 hours on the go, we finally made it back to the car. A pretty strenuous day, but fun. After a pint at the pub, I quite nearly passed out (maybe heat exhaustion?)

Mount Cain

We camped at Klakama Lake for the evening, and then headed up for a shorter scramble up Mount Cain. In the winter, Mount Cain is a classic ski destination on the Island. It is a community-run ski park on the north Island. They get tonnes of snow, have great terrain, and a great community vibe. In the summer, the road up to the ski park makes for pretty quick access to some nice peaks.

We decided to have a go at the west peak on Mount Cain. In Phil Stone's Island Alpine, he rates it as one of the top 10 day ascents on the Island. We followed the access road from the parking lot up to the upper t-bar. From there, we crossed a basin and up a broad gulley to a ledge near the summit. From there we had to traverse around onto the south face of the mountain, and into a deep gulley. With a few exposed scrambling bits, this led to the summit.

Looking over to the basin and approach gulley, with the west peak of Mount Cain.

On the ledge with the final rock step to get past.

Entering into the gulley from the traverse.

Looking over to the main (true) summit of Mount Cain from the west peak. It is substantially harder than the west peak (scramble). I think the route is up the far left. There are also some sporting upper 5th class routes on the faces on the right.

Looking over to Mount Hapush.

The distant Haihte Range

Mount Abel