Victoria Peak has been on my list for a while. I had a spare day, so figure it would be a good place to go check out. Unfortunately attempts to find a partner were unsuccessful, so I found myself heading up after work on Friday by myself. The plan was to go fast and light, and pack only what was abolutely necessary. I had pretty good beta on the route, so figured I could manage with failry minimal gear, but I did bring along a 30m rope and home-made light sling harness for rapelling a crux step. I also brought along a +10deg overbag and small sil-tarp, and no stove.
The road in was in decent shape, and I could drive up to about 1000m elevation. I had to walk the last couple of kilometers of road, and then onto the trail. In less than half an hour I was up on the ridge and into the alpine, and then spent another hour or so ridge-running my way up towards the peak. I settled into camp and had a quick dinner, and enjoyed the amazing sunset.
Approach to Victoria Peak
Victoria Peak with route going right to left on the upper snowfield. My bivi site was on the ridge just above the lower snow.
What a camp spot!
Moon rise over the Elk River Valley
It was a cold, clear night (~3 degrees) and my F&L bag didn't quite cut it. I manage to sleep for about 3 hours. It was tough sleeping more than that, and I shivered for a few hours until the sun finally came up. An amazing sunrise and there was a whole ocean of low valley cloud which made for a surreal setting.
The road in was in decent shape, and I could drive up to about 1000m elevation. I had to walk the last couple of kilometers of road, and then onto the trail. In less than half an hour I was up on the ridge and into the alpine, and then spent another hour or so ridge-running my way up towards the peak. I settled into camp and had a quick dinner, and enjoyed the amazing sunset.
Approach to Victoria Peak
Victoria Peak with route going right to left on the upper snowfield. My bivi site was on the ridge just above the lower snow.
What a camp spot!
Moon rise over the Elk River Valley
It was a cold, clear night (~3 degrees) and my F&L bag didn't quite cut it. I manage to sleep for about 3 hours. It was tough sleeping more than that, and I shivered for a few hours until the sun finally came up. An amazing sunrise and there was a whole ocean of low valley cloud which made for a surreal setting.The climb went well. There are two options for getting over a step in a ledge accessing the upper snowfield. I took the first one of these, which might have been a little steeper, but was pretty ledgy and had positive holds (the other route looked less steep but more precarious, and had a bit of a hand-line on it). Overall a short (15m) stretch, 4th or easy 5th class. After getting over the crux it was an easy scramble up to the peak.
Warden Peak and a sea of clouds. The clouds make it easy to imagine what the area would have looked like during the last Ice Age.
A happy Woollen Knickers
Back down the route, and rappelled the step with my short rope. Back from a quick snack at camp and back down to the car before the heat of the day hit. What a great spot! Quick, easy access and beautiful spot.
Warden Peak and a sea of clouds. The clouds make it easy to imagine what the area would have looked like during the last Ice Age.
A happy Woollen Knickers
Back down the route, and rappelled the step with my short rope. Back from a quick snack at camp and back down to the car before the heat of the day hit. What a great spot! Quick, easy access and beautiful spot. 
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